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How to properly waterproof a bath floor, select materials, protect structures from water
The floor is waterproofed in the bath regardless of whether it is wooden or concrete, since neither one nor the other loves prolonged exposure to moisture. Therefore, if you want the built bathhouse to last long enough, you need to qualitatively perform waterproofing the floor. We will talk about how to properly waterproof the floor in the bath and what types of floor waterproofing in this article.
Content
- Arrangement of the drainage system in the bath
- The choice of materials for floor waterproofing
- Waterproofing a wooden floor video
- Waterproofing the concrete floor in the bath
Arrangement of the drainage system in the bath
Not the last place in protecting the floor from water is occupied by a properly equipped drainage system that ensures the drainage of excess water in the washing room. Moreover, the type of drainage system directly depends on the properties of the soil.
If the soil does not absorb water well, it is necessary to make a pit for water accumulation. From the pit to the drain pit or sewer, a pipe is installed at a slight angle, through which excess water will be drained.
If the bath is on soils that easily absorb moisture, then such problems will not arise when creating a drainage system. In this case, it will be enough just to dig an absorbing hole and fill it with gravel, crushed stone or broken brick.
The choice of materials for floor waterproofing
There are two types of floor waterproofing depending on the selected materials, it is coated, glued or penetrated.
The coating type of waterproofing is suitable for all surfaces and is distinguished by exceptional waterproof performance.
With this type of insulation are used:
- Bitumen and bitumen-polymer mastics. These types of mastics are relatively inexpensive and consist of oxidized bitumen and synthetic additives. The main disadvantage of mastics is the need to equip a concrete screed.
- Cement-polymer mastics. Due to the versatility of this material, you can forget about a separate arrangement of concrete screed, since when using a special reinforcing mesh, cement-polymer mastic performs both waterproofing and screed functions. Drying such waterproofing takes about four days.
- Polymer liquid mastics. The indisputable advantage of such mastics is the high drying rate.
- One-component cement mixes with organic additives in many characteristics and method of use are similar to cement-polymer mastics.
With regard to technology, with the coating type of insulation, the floor is covered with several layers of mastic and covered with roll waterproofing, on top of which the finishing material is laid. This type of waterproofing will reliably protect the entire structure from unwanted moisture, but it will steal about six centimeters of room height. In addition, coating mastics are quite expensive, because of which waterproofing the floor in the bath with coating materials can fly into a pretty penny.
Adhesive waterproofing is the cheapest option. The roll materials used for this are a special flexible base made of fiberglass, fiberglass or polyester, on both sides of which layers of bitumen are applied.
Such rolled materials are of two types:
-Splashable, when before laying it is necessary to warm up one side of the canvas with a heating pad;
- Self-adhesive when a special adhesive is applied on one side of the fabric. The main advantages of this type of waterproofing are ease of installation and low cost of the materials themselves.
Penetrating insulation can be polymer cement, inorganic cement, concrete and seamless. In this case, the latter option is considered the most effective type of insulation and is suitable for use in any room.
Waterproofing a wooden floor
The wooden floor in the bath may not be leaking and leaking. Depending on the type of wooden floor, the drainage and waterproofing device will differ.
The arrangement of the leaking floor in the bath is possible only in regions with a warm climate, since such floors are quite cold. In the case of leaking wooden floors, all excess water flows underground through cracks, from where it either escapes or is absorbed into the ground. In the latter case, underground drainage is necessary to prevent dampness. The surfaces of the chairs and the footings of the foundation are covered with parchment or ruberoid, and the lags themselves are treated with an antiseptic that will protect them from rot. It is also necessary to ensure that the ventilation in the underground is good and provides quick drying of the floors.
It is better to choose floorboards themselves from coniferous species, pine or larch. Before laying, each board is covered several times with drying oil, which ensures a longer life of the tree and, unlike ordinary paint, will not impede quick drying.
The non-leaking floor in the bath has its own installation particulars; it must be laid with a slight slope (approximately 10 degrees) to the opening of the catchment.
Before proceeding with the waterproofing of such a floor, it is necessary to initially carry out its vapor barrier using polyethylene or parchment, laid in 2-3 overlap layers. Expanded clay or glass wool insulation is laid on top, and only then proceed directly to waterproofing.
The waterproofing of the non-leaking floor in the bath should be done qualitatively, since not only durability, but also the heat of the floor will depend on this. Traditionally, for this purpose, we use roofing material, which is laid in two or three layers and coated with bitumen.
Waterproofing the concrete floor in the bath
Insulation of the concrete floor is carried out only after the final drying of the concrete. Initially, on this floor, it is necessary to make a cement-sand screed with a thickness of about 15-20 millimeters. Next, you need to level the surface, remove traces of paint and oily stains, and only then, on a flat and clean surface, you can waterproof.
If mastic was chosen to isolate the floor, then it must be started to be applied from the opposite door of the wall. In this case, you should carefully read the instructions on the packaging. As a rule, it contains answers to how the mastic is applied, its drying time and the number of layers needed. It should be noted that if the instructions require the application of several layers, then they should lay down crosswise.
If the waterproofing will be carried out using rolled materials, then its installation will not cause any difficulties. The only requirement is that it is necessary to ensure that the rolled web overlap at least one centimeter.